With its 6962m Aconcagua is the highest mountain of the American continent and one of the Seven Summits.
The way over the Polish-Glacier more technical and demanding than the normal routes on Mt. Aconcagua but definitely the most stunning and lonesome one as well. It leads from the last camp at 5850m across the glacier trough ice, snow and mixed terrain in a direct line up to the summit. In order to guarantee a safe ascent and descent we’ve installed the same fixed ropes that we use on Everest. Compared to the dry gravel slopes of the normal route and polish traverse, this direct polish glacier route is much more attractive and now finally made accessible. A new dimension of high alititude mountaineering on Mt. Aconcagua!
Climbing Aconcagua over the Direct Polish glacier route is not only a great experience, but also the perfect preparation for Mt. Everest due to the similar terrain and the fixed ropes, installed on both mountains. Furthermore, one climbs a summit over 6500m, which is a future requirement for the Everest-permit. And in addition, there’s the option to book and test the Everest oxygen system on Aconcagua summit day.
Highlights:
- The highest mountain of America (6962m) via direct polish glacier route
- Individual support by our IFMGA mountain guide
- The only line of fixed ropes on the mountain: 1200m of ropes, which are maintained regularly
- More safety due to the communication network covering the complete route
- Travelling through the beautiful scenery of the Andean Region
- Option to book the hypoxic pre-acclimatization system or Everest oxygen system for summit day
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Mendoza (760 m / 2,493 ft).
Our driver will pick you up at the airport and drive you to the Diplomatic Hotel. Your guide will contact you to schedule a gear check and the team meeting.
Day 2: Transfer in private vehicles from Mendoza to Penitentes. After getting the climbing permits at the Park office in Mendoza, our private van drives the group to the lodge at Los Penitentes. This small mountain village at 2.580 m / 8,465 ft is where we have our warehouse and where the loads for the mules are prepared.
3 hour drive
Day 3: Penitentes – Punta de Vacas (trailhead) – Pampa de Leñas camp (2.950 m / 9,678 ft).
After breakfast, we drive ten minutes to Punta de Vacas. We get our climbing permits stamped at the rangers station and begin the approach to base camp. After a 4 to 5-hour hike along Río de las Vacas we arrive at our first camp, Pampa de Leñas, where we enjoy a genuine asado criollo (Gaucho BBQ). For the entire hike in to BC you will be carrying a day pack with only the necessary essentials. The mules take care of the heavy loads.
Trek: 4-5 hs
Day 4: Pampa de Leñas – Casa de Piedra (3.240 m /10,630 ft).
Hike to Casa de Piedra, our second approach camp. Great view of the Polish Glacier and the eastern face of Aconcagua as we arrive to the camp.
Trek: 6 hs
Day 5: Casa de Piedra – Plaza Argentina Base Camp (4.190 m / 13,746 ft).
We follow the trail up the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina. Our BC chef greets us with a hearty dinner in a comfy dining tent. A proper reward after the hardest day of the approach.
Trek: 6-7 hs
Day 6: Plaza Argentina.
Rest day at base camp. Sleeping, reading in the dining tent or trying the yoga mats in our heated lounge tent; whatever you do, get hydrated!
Day 7: Plaza Argentina – Camp 1 – Plaza Argentina (4.800 m/ 15,748 ft).
With the trek to BC and the first stage of acclimatization completed, the climb itself begins with this gear carry to camp 1. After catching equipment, food and gas we return to base camp.
Trek: 7 hs
Day 8: Plaza Argentina. Rest day at base camp.
Day 9: Plaza Argentina – Camp 1 (4800m/15748ft) The team leaves BC behind and moves to camp 1 with the remaining gear. Our porters will carry the tents and other common gear, the climbers carry their own gear and their share of the common gear if needed (expect to carry a 18-22 kg backpack).
Trek: 4-5 hs
Day 10: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5486m/18000ft) – Camp 1
Gear carry to camp 2, also called “Guanacos”. Astonishing view of Mt. Mercedario and other peaks of the Ramada massif. Return to Camp 1.
Trek: 5-6 hs
Day 11: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5486m/18000ft) Move to Camp 2 “Guanacos”.
Trek: 5 hs
Day 12: Camp 2 (Guanacos 5486m / 18,000 ft).
Rest day.
Day 13: Camp 2 (Guanacos) – Camp 3 (Polish Glacier 5863m/19235ft) Camp 2
4-5 hs
Day 14: Summit day! (6960m/22837ft).
We leave early to get the most of the (long) day. You will be carrying a very light backpack (water, snacks, some clothing, camera).
Trek: 8-12 hs
Day 15: Extra weather day. To secure the success of the expedition we have added two additional summit days in case of bad weather.
Day 16: Extra weather day.
Day 17: Camp 3 (Polish Glacier Camp 2) – basecamp Pl. Argentina.
Celebration time! We enjoy our dinner in dining tents with tables and chairs again. What a pleasure!
Day 18: Plaza Argentina – Pampa de Leñas.
We say good bye to our “home away from home” and begin the two day trek out to the trailhead. An alternative way to end the expedition in grand style is to flight out in a helicopter (optional service, with additional cost). The heli-charter spares two days of strenuous hiking and lets you admire Aconcagua from the air: the perfect icing on the cake!
Day 19: Pampa de Leñas – Punta de Vacas – Penitentes – Mendoza.
We complete the trek out to Punta de Vacas, where we meet our van. Private transfer to Mendoza, after picking up the gear at Penitentes. Hotel check-in, end of the program.
Trek: 7-8 hs + 3-4 hour drive
Day 20: Individual flight back home
Hasta luego Argentina! It’s time to say goodbye. Transfer to the airport and individual flight back home.
