The Matterhorn is undeniably the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps. Its bold pyramidal shape evokes emotions of wonderment and even fear in those who view it for the first time as its four distinct faces stand omnipotent and menacing over the green meadows below.
- Classic peak with centuries of history
- Long and technical route
- Cable car access and high-class mountain huts
Perhaps the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps, the Matterhorn needs little in the way of introduction. Separated by sharp ridges, the four faces of the Matterhorn are orientated to the four points of the compass, the northern aspects within Switzerland while the southern side lies in Italy. The peak was first climbed in 1865 by Edward Whymper via the famous Hörnli Ridge, the route that we also follow to the summit. The steep rock ridge is very involving and a successful attempt requires a rapid rate of ascent and full concentration by a fit party. Climbers must be competent on long alpine rock routes to be able to seriously attempt the climb, but for the initiated, achieving the ascent will be the real highlight of a climbing trip in the Alps.
Itinerary
Day | |
0 | Arrive Chamonix, hotel night. |
1 | Meet with your guide for an equipment check and briefing before taking La Flégère and l'Index lifts to 2,400m/7,800ft. Traverse the peaks of Aiguille de l’Index (2,595m/8,514ft) and return via La Flégère lift. Hotel night. |
2 | To Midi lift and acclimatise on the traverse of Pointe Lachenal (3,613m/11,854ft, AD). Return via the Arête des Cosmiques and the Midi lift. Overnight at Cosmiques Hut (3,613m/11,854ft). |
3 | Walk across the Valle Blanche and enjoy a traverse of the Entrèves (3,611m/11,847ft). Take the Panoramic lift back across and descend to Chamonix. Hotel night. |
4 | Drive to Täsch in Switzerland, take the train into Zermatt itself. Take lift to Schwarzsee (1,050m/3,400ft) and walk to the Hörnli Hut (3,260m/10,696ft, 2hrs). |
5 | Summit Day (4,478m/14,691ft). 3.00am start. Descend back to Hörnli, and continue down to Schwarzsee hotel. |
6 | Descend to Zermatt and return to Chamonix with a bit of rock climbing en route. This is also a contingency day in case of bad weather. Hotel night. |
7 | Depart Chamonix after breakfast. Trip Ends. |