Everest from the north (Tibet, north col)
So much has already been written and continues to be written about it. Good and bad, fascinating, off-putting, captivating, strange, tragic and intriguing. Whatever your personal opinion, Everest is and will always remain the mother of all mountains. Its chronicle of ascents is unmatched in terms of drama, insanity and heroics. It is the playground of the elite alpinists of our time, and also the most dreamed-of mountain for so many climbers from all over the world. It is 8,848 meters of pure magnetism. It’s not just a mountain. Everest is a legend.
Furtenbach Adventures is the first western operator to run Mount Everest expeditions from both the north and the south at the same time. We offer the highest possible safety and quality standards and the reassurance for our clients that they are entrusting themselves to a licensed, strictly assessed Austrian expedition organizer.
- 1:1 client to Sherpa ratio on summit day
- Minimum 8 bottles of oxygen per client
- IFMGA/ AMGA mountain guide
- Small group size for increased safety and higher success rate
- 100% success rate 2017
- 100% success rate 2018
- 100% success rate 2019
- 2020 Expedition cancelled because of COVID
- 2021 Expedition cancelled because of COVID
- 100% success rate 2022 (South) + first CO2 negative Expedition in history
- Hypoxic tent for pre-acclimatization at home
- Shorter expedition duration due to pre-acclimatization
- All drinks included (softdrinks & alcoholic beverages)
North vs. South
The two "normal ascents" on Mount Everest each offer certain advantages, but also pose their own risks and challenges. Ultimately it should be a well-informed decision on the part of aspirants whether to climb from Tibet in the north via the North Col and Northeast ridge, or from Nepal in the south over the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse face and the Southeast ridge. In many cases, a decision in favour of one or the other side will be a result of several factors including the experience of the participant, his personality, and his exact plan for ascent, Perhaps one side is more appealing to you, it exerts more attraction or catches your eye with a beautiful line. Listen to your intuition, which usually provides the best advice in such cases, or seek personal advice from us!
North
+ objectively the safer ascent route
+ the last camp is higher (8300m) resulting in a shorter summit stage
+ more comfortable and luxurious basecamp due to road access
- longer exposure to wind and cold during ascent
- technically more challenging during the last third, more cliffs
- descending from the summit is more difficult
South
+ technically the easier and longer ascent, sheltered from the wind
+ statistically a higher chance of reaching the summit
+ lower altitude base camp, resulting in better regeneration
- ice fall and avalanche hazard at the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse slope
- last camp is at 8000m, resulting in a longer, more strenuous summit day
- Overall ascent from the base camp is somewhat longer and requires more stamina
About Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expeditions
We run a unique style of Everest expedition with maximum oxygen and Sherpa support to achieve the highest level of safety and highest chances of success. The exclusive nature of Furtenbach Adventures makes our expeditions stand out from the rest – maybe even a bit better.
- Shorter expedition duration with hypoxic pre-acclimatization
- We benefit from 20 years of experience in organizing expeditions to eight-thousand-meter peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.
- We employ experienced, state-certified (IFMGA/AMGA) mountain guides, together with a team of proven Everest Sherpas.
- Our climbing Sherpas have summitted Everest several times over and are highly skilled at knowing exactly how they can best support our climbers during their summit attempt.
- In contrast to many other tour operators, we provide the most advanced, most reliable and easiest oxygen system available on the market, from Summit Oxygen.
- We provide a minimum of 8 oxygen bottles to each of our climbers – more than any other operator. This means our clients can breathe at a higher flow rate while climbing and can sleep using oxygen from Camp 2 (North Col), thereby conserving energy.
- Our climbers are better acclimatized by the time they arrive because they have already started their acclimatization process at home, 4 weeks prior to the start of the expedition. All high-altitude generator equipment is delivered to your home and collected when training is completed and includes a training plan and expert supervision. We take care of everything.
- We provide one of the most comfortable base camp facilities ever to be seen on Everest.
- The food that our kitchen teams produce is outstanding, turned out from a base camp kitchen on a glacial moraine at the ends of the Earth.
But finally, we give you the Furtenbach Adventures promise of quality:
More Sherpa support, more oxygen and more comfort than any other operator. This leads to better recovery, more safety and, ultimately, to higher chances of success. The overall expedition duration can be shortened through pre-acclimatization at home.
Itinerary
The following schedule is planned:
The exact schedule on Mount Everest depends on regulatory requirements, the weather and snow conditions as well as the progress of security work along the route. In addition, the schedule of other groups is taken into account in order to avoid any potential traffic jams. In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp, route, high camp etc., a successful ascent also requires a great deal of luck, good weather, good physical condition and mental strength of the participants. We allow maximum flexibility. The expedition can be extended if required by the circumstances, as long as the participants wish to do so and are ready to bear the additional costs incurred.
Day 1: Arrival and get-together at the hotel in Kathmandu
Meet and greet the other participants while enjoying a beer in the hotel gardens. A great adventure awaits us. You can feel the tension rising. Soon we will embark on our journey and already there’s a feeling of pride and grandeur.
Days 2 – 3: Free days in Kathmandu
Those who do not yet know Kathmandu will love it. Relax in the comfortable hotel, shop and people watch in Thamel, enjoy the cultural program, or simply soak up the atmosphere. To each his own.
Day 4: Flight to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet – one of the probably most stunning mountain flights in the world where you might be able to already catch a glimpse at the Everest. The rest of the day remains to explore Lhasas’ old town or enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.
Day 5: In the morning, we have time for sightseeing at the most important sights of Lhasa: the Potala Palace, the former residence of the Dalai Lama and the Jokhan Cemetery which shows us the rich culture of this beautiful country.
Day 6: Today we start travelling to Shigatse (3800m), the second largest town in Tibet, where we will spend the night at a decent but clean hotel.
Day 7: Transfer to Tingri at 4300m. The accommodation is again very simple, but the food isstill very good!
Day 8: A day of rest for everyone in order to acclimatize. Again, beautiful 5000m high hill to hike. One wonders about the sheep with their shepherds, because it is even more barren here.
Day 9: Transfer to the Everest base camp (driver`s camp) at 5200m.
Day 10-12: Rest days for acclimatization and for organizing the loads for the yaks.
Day 13: Ascent to the middle camp at 6200m on the way to the advanced base camp (ABC).
Day 14: Arrival to the ABC at 6400m. Here you’ll feel the benefits of the pre-acclimatization in the high altitude tents at home.
Days 15-38: Careful acclimatization with a climb to approximately 7500m. Our Sherpa team will set up three high camps at 7000m (North Col), 7800m and 8300m. Ascent Everest. We are waiting for the right weather window for our first summit attempt. In the past, all successful summit days are in this period. After the steep glacier climb to the North Col we`ll stay in Camp1, following the less demanding north ridge which later leads to the northeast ridge we stay in Camp2 at about 7800m and Camp3 at 8300m. From here we cross below the northeast ridge to the north-west flank and then back to the ridge with the secured 1st, 2nd and 3rd step and finally we tackle the summit slope. From Camp 2 onwards, oxygen is available. At Camps 3 and 4, we will also sleep with oxygen. There is plenty of time for a few days of rest and a second try at the summit.
Day 39: Return trip ABC – BC
Days 40-41: Transfer back to Kathmandu with an anticipated stay of one night at the halfway point.
Day 42: Return travel.
Inclusion
- All expedition organization costs
- IFMGA/AMGA mountain guide
- 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu - single room
- All transfers including transport from Kathmandu – Everest BC – Kathmandu (flights, all-terrain vehicles)
- Customs clearance at the Chinese (Tibetan) border
- Full board for the duration of the trip (except in Kathmandu — breakfast only)
- All drinks included
- Twin room for stop-overs on way to base camp
- Baggage transport to base camp and back (max 40kg baggage per person)
- 1 two-roomed tent with bed at base camp per person
- 1 tent with sleeping mat per person at advanced base camp (ABC)
- 1 tent per 2 persons at high camps
- High camp equipment (tents, cooker, gas, crockery, food)
- All safety equipment for the route
- Use of fixed ropes along the route
- Waste transport away from base camp
- High altitude porters and climbing Sherpas (1:1 Sherpa-client ratio on summit day)
- Oxygen package provided by Summit Oxygen with a rental mask & regulator and 8 bottles per participant
- Hypoxic tent and generator for up to 4 weeks prior to expedition
- Insurance and equipment for Nepalese staff
- Emergency medical oxygen
- First aid kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter
- Kitchen crew
- Cozy, heated group tent at base camp and ABC
- Equipment for a comfortable stay at base camp (shower tent, toilet tent, dining tent, etc.)
- Satellite communication and WIFI for a fee and depending on availability
- Solar charging
- Two-way radio for each climber
- All summit fees & permits
- Weather updates
Exclusions
- International flight to/from Kathmandu (We’ll gladly make you an offer)
- Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
- Excess baggage fees on included flights
- Personal insurance
- Visa for Nepal (available at the airport, multiple entry 90 days USD 125, bring a passport photo!)
- Personal medications
- Tips
- Personal mountain and climbing equipment
- Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
- Charges for satellite phone use, emails
- Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpas
