Everest via South Col (Nepal)

Everest South Col Overview

Everest South Col is the most popular route for ambitious climbers looking to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

The Everest South Col route is considered a slightly more dangerous route due to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. However, it is also an easier route when compared to the North Side as it requires less steep rock climbing and more shelter from the wind. This is why it is favoured by so many.

Quick Facts about Everest South Col

• The fastest ascent of Everest South Side was completed by Lakpa Gelu Sherpa in 2003. He reached the summit and did a round-trip in 18 hours, 20 minutes.
• Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were the first climbers to reach the summit of Everest. They travelled from the South Side in 1953.
• The youngest person to reach the summit of Everest was Jordan Romero, who was 13 years old at the time.

History of Everest South Col

The Everest South Col route in Nepal is famous for being the route traversed by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when they summited Everest for the first time on May 29th 1953.

There have been several other famous routes on Everest South Col, including the Bonington Route which was first climbed by Chris Bonington in 1975. Alongside this, the West Pillar was first climbed in 1982 by a Russian expedition, which included Eduard Myslovski and Volodya Balyberdin.

The South Pillar is another popular and relatively safe route which was first climbed in 1980 by Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok.

Experience Required for Climbing Everest South Col

While Everest South is considered an easier route compared to the North Route (as it’s sheltered from the wind), it’s still a very challenging climb.

The final camp is at 8,000m, resulting in a longer and more strenuous summit day, and the overall ascent from base camp is longer so it requires more stamina.

Make no mistake, climbing Everest South is very difficult and requires intermediate to advanced mountaineering skills, broad experience and intense training.

Main Routes at Everest South Col

The South-Eastern Ridge via the South Col is the most popular route on Everest. You will climb from Base Camp, through the Khumbu icefall to Camp 1. The route then continues up the Western CWM to Camp 2 - also known as Advanced Base Camp (ABC). This is the staging point for the Summit push. After Camp 2, it is straight up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3. From Camp 3 you continue up the remainder of the Lhotse Face to the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur, finally leading you to the South Col (saddle) where Camp 4 is located. It is normal to rest here for a few hours and then begin your ‘Summit Day’ which can be anywhere from 7 to 12 hours (or even longer depending on many factors).

The Southwest Face is also a popular choice amongst climbers; there are two potential routes to consider here, both of which are very difficult and require climbing at extreme altitude (the Bonington Route and the West Pillar route).

The South Pillar route is considered safe by comparison, although many people taking on this route prefer to traverse across the South-Eastern ridge lower down rather than navigating the difficult rock barriers towards the top of this route.

Useful information about Everest South Col 

Height: 8,848m/29,029ft 

Weather: During April and May, the weather is warmer but cloudier; later in the year, there is less heat haze and clearer views, but the temperature can be crisper. 

Peak Climbing Season: April-May, September-October

Summit Window: Based on historical data, the most common day of the year to summit is May 11th. The jetstream which blasts into the summit for most of the year moves away just before Monsoon season arrives. This creates a clear weather window of around 12 days. There is also a short Autumn window similar to this. 

Average Expedition Length: 50-60 Days 

Accepted Currencies: Nepalese Rupee (official), USD, EUR (accepted)

Language: Nepali

How to Get to Everest South Col

Your travel route will vary depending on the expedition you choose. Please refer to individual guides expeditions for more information.

The most common route to follow when approaching Mount Everest from the south involves following a trek from Lukla Airport. You will head down the Khumbu Valley via Lobuche to Everest Base Camp. You’ll find that the majority of Everest South Col expeditions will begin this way.